From harvest to brew day in Kawagoe

Coedo Brewery’s Fresh Hop series has been running since 2021. Brewer Osamu Goto, who also worked on last year’s beer, explains how this year’s release was designed and brewed.

The main hop is HKTS02, grown by Kobayashi Hops in Hokuto, Yamanashi. It is known for an aroma reminiscent of shine muscat grapes, together with a fresh, grassy quality. For Coedo, “fresh hop” means using the hop immediately after harvest, without drying or processing it into pellets. Because the hop can oxidize and develop a harsher bitterness over time, speed and temperature control are essential.

Heavy rain and typhoons caused some of the hop trellises to collapse this year, but farmer Yoshimitsu Kobayashi repaired and reinforced them, allowing the harvest to proceed. The brewers left for the fields before sunrise, harvested the hops, transported them to the Kawagoe brewery, and began brewing on the same day. The brew volume was also tripled compared with the previous year, adding to the challenge.

A saison built around spice

Last year, Coedo deliberately delayed the harvest to emphasize linalool and its tropical, shine muscat-like aroma. This time, the team wanted to draw out a more distinctly spicy profile, so the hops were picked at their aromatic peak. Goto also felt that HKTS02’s spicy and grassy notes would complement the ester and phenolic character of a saison yeast. The style was a new challenge for the Fresh Hop series.

The result is described as a “hoppy saison”: slightly dry, with spicy hop aroma leading the finish. For food pairing, Coedo recommends dishes with restrained aromas, such as carpaccio and marinades, rather than heavily spiced foods that could compete with the beer. The pairing approach is similar to enjoying a delicate white wine.

A tulip glass is recommended to bring out the aroma. When cold, the hop character takes the lead; as the beer warms, yeast-derived esters become more apparent, offering a changing sensory experience.

Based in Higashimatsuyama, Saitama, Coedo Brewery is known for beers that explore the character of regional ingredients. This year’s Fresh Hop release captures the collaboration between a local hop farmer and the brewery, presenting another seasonal expression of Japanese-grown hops.